Franz Joseph

Travel Advice for Seniors: Franz Josef

We were now headed into the mountains and glaciers of Franz Josef, but first we had booked a ride on the Trans Alpine Train from Christchurch to Greymouth! This wonderful train trip takes you from the east side of the South Island to the west side over Cass and Arthur’s Pass in the Southern Alps. The train route was originally laid down in the 1860s by stagecoaches carrying provisions to west-coast gold prospectors.

If you have a chance and it fits into your schedule, by all means book the Trans Alpine train. The train is fairly slow moving with large viewing windows and comfortable seats and takes you past phenomenal views and over Waimakariri River Bridge, through five-mile Otira Tunnel and over a second 270’ tall bridge. Sightseeing narration is provided by earbuds and a pamphlet, so you know what you are seeing, though it is not required to listen. The train ride lasts for about 4.5 hours.

We overnighted in Greymouth as the bus to Franz Josef had already gone for the day. If you want to do the train, you pretty much have to stay overnight in Greymouth. We stayed at the Copthorne Hotel, which was a short walk from the train station and an easy walk back to the same the next morning to catch the bus to Franz Josef. Even with burning an extra afternoon in Greymouth, it was still worthwhile to get to ride the train.

Franz Josef is a very small town and exists as a jump off point for glacier tourism. Unfortunately, tours to the glacier are somewhat weather-dependent and we had booked a glacier flyover and landing, which was cancelled due to winds and weather. Be prepared to contact the tour operator on your own to make sure you are still good to go as it can be touch and go.

As it ended up, the cancellation gave us the opportunity to walk into town and pick up some soup and sandwich supplies. We loved having our own kitchen in the hotel as it gave us a chance to relax and make something simple and inexpensive for lunch. Even though nothing at the very small grocery store was inexpensive! Since the weather was cold and windy, it gave us a chance to relax a bit and be comfortable.

The cancellation also gave us a chance to visit the West Coast Wildlife Center twice! The West Coast Wildlife Center, in conjunction with the NZ Department of Conservation rears kiwi and tuatara. Kiwi are the national bird and symbol of New Zealand. Tuatara are a type of lizard.

Interestingly, the kiwi was almost brought to extinction due to predators and loss of habitat. They are slowly being brought back, however, they remain endangered. The NZ government set up the Kiwi Recovery Program in 1991 and they are slowly making a comeback. 

Kiwis are small, nocturnal, flightless birds and are prime prey to their archenemy, the weasel. New Zealanders are very aware and concerned about conservation of their island life and fauna and if you spend any amount of time in the country, you will become aware of the same. For instance, they prohibit kangaroos as they kill the ferns and the trees and there are rodent/weasel traps that you may see frequently in some areas.

Tuatara are a type of lizard, that while not specifically endangered any longer is still on the watch list, so to speak, due to reduction of habitat, predators and black market.

We purchased a VIP pass to the Wildlife Center, which allowed us to get up close and personal with the lizards and the kiwi. They do have a kiwi hatching facility, but there were no babies to see there, only an egg incubating. Also, the kiwi are nocturnal. The folks at the Conservation Center have acclimated them to be awake during the daytime, but in very dark conditions. You can walk through a habitat area, but you can barely see the kiwis, mostly you can hear them. Of course, no pictures. Even in the dark habitat though, we still stood transfixed as our eyes acclimated and watched them move around foraging for lunch for an hour or so!

The lizard area was well-lit and we did enjoy the conservation talk and petting the lizards. I know, not for everyone! It was worthwhile getting the VIP pass as went back a second day to visit the wildlife and spent some more time with the kiwis.

The weather cleared the next day, and we were able to go for a hike to see views of the Franz Josef Glacier. Fortunately for us, we were the only ones on the tour so got to hear plenty of stories and Māori lore on the area. The pathways we took were pretty steep so a walking stick would be helpful. The walk ended at a heavily rocked riverbed where you could see the bottom of the glacier. The weather cooperated and we were able to get some great pictures.

There were some nice dinner selections at Franz Josef for a small town. We dined at King Tiger, a Chinese/Asian fusion restaurant with a lovely décor. The food was great, and the ambiance was pleasant. It was walking distance from the hotel.

A word about Franz Josef….it is so small that we were able to have the InterCity bus actually drop us off and pick us up from the hotel, which is a bit odd, but worked for us! Also, most of the restaurants, tours and so on are walking distance, so don’t stress about getting around.

In fact, most New Zealanders are very laid back about travel, catching the bus, etc. I know on a holiday, it can be nerve-racking when buses are late and tours don’t happen because of weather or other problems, but hey, you’re on vacation! Unless it is your life’s mission to step on the glacier at Franz Joseph for instance, go with the flow, or make a trip itinerary adjustment if you need to. 

We were rapidly approaching the end of our four-week trip to New Zealand. Queenstown would be our final destination, and we were on our way in the morning.

Where we stayed: 58 On Cron Motel at Franz Josef. Single story, well-located motel. Comfortable rooms with full kitchen. Breakfast was included but it was boxed affair with dry crisps and jelly and peanut butter.

How we got there: Trans Alpine Train to Greymouth from Christchurch, overnight in Greymouth, then InterCity bus to Franz Josel. This was part of a four-week private tour through New Zealand. We began in Auckland and ended in Queenstown.

General Accessibility Information: Major tourist sights, hotels and transportation in most major cities are accessible. Further, some parks or parts of parks are accessible. Call in advance to verify and make specialty arrangements.See our sections on specialty apps and accessible travel for more on accessibility assistance.