Moscow

Our first river cruise ever! And what a fabulous way to begin! We signed up for a 15-day river cruise of Russian waterways featuring Moscow and various sights along the Volga, Lake Onega and Neva, ending at St Petersburg.

We opted for a three-day pre-extension in Moscow, which ended up being a two-day pre-extension due to airplane mechanical issues.  Nothing more frustrating than spending your first full day of a highly anticipated holiday at the airport waiting on information and then having to go home and try again the next day. Urgh.

Then to arrive in Moscow and find that Mom’s suitcase was in Greece. We didn’t fly that airline for several years after this! In case you haven’t yet read our hard-learned packing tips: Always pack a change of clothes in your backpack, and secondly pack a two to three day supply of clothes in your travel partner’s suitcase and vice versa. Thankfully her bag arrived next day, sparing us a logistical nightmare. Also, not fun trying to speak to a Russian airport baggage employee with very limited English (and us with non-existent Russian) trying to fill out lost luggage forms.  Made for a difficult first day!

But finally, Moscow! Our hotel was the Radisson Royal which was a very nice centrally located hotel. Breakfast buffet was outstanding as were the rooms.

First full day was a walking Moscow Metro (subway) tour. Thankfully it was guided, as while we are not strangers to how subways work, all signage was in Russian Cyrillic alphabet and in combination with jet lag, it was a challenge. The subways were safe, very clean and surprisingly beautiful. It is said that the subways were designed “for the people”. Many subway stops were so architecturally gorgeous, they could have easily been a room at the Hermitage.

Following the subway orientation, we visited the Puskin State Museum of Fine Arts. The ancient Egyptian collection here is one of the best in the world. They also have an amazing collection of French paintings including Monet, Degas, Van Gogh, Gauguin, Rembrandt, Rubens, Matisse and more. This was a “must-see” for us and did not disappoint.

Second day was the State Tretyakov Gallery tour, followed by a visit to the Russian State Historical Museum. The Tretyakov Gallery is one of the best places to view Russian fine art in the world. Most of it is from the eleventh through twentieth century and includes pieces by Repen, Levitan, Serov, Shishken and others.

The Russian State Historical Museum’s exhibitions range from archeological relics of prehistoric Russian tribes to priceless artworks acquired by the Romanov dynasty. The museum was eventually defaced and shorn of its imperial beauty during communism and then restored in 2007. A fascinating and educational afternoon to be sure.

Third day was finally our visit to Red Square, quite a sight to behold! Pictures don’t do it justice. A huge square and yes, St Basil’s really is that spectacularly beautiful. I’d skip the inside tour though, the beauty is on the outside. Surprisingly, the inside isn’t that remarkable.  Red Square is central to Moscow’s historic city center and along the eastern walls of the Kremlin. Besides St Basil’s it also features Lenin’s Mausoleum and GUM department store. It was incredible to stand inside Red Square, the site of so much history. You have to take a moment, to just stand and soak it all in.

GUM department store is the department store of Russia. It is in a lovely building with a huge classical atrium. Luxe retailers are well represented as are gourmet foods and a remarkable ice cream counter, plus a little bit of souvenirs and everything else.

We also passed by the lovely Bolshoi Theater, home to the world-famous Bolshoi Ballet and Bolshoi Opera, one of the oldest and best-known ballet and opera companies in the world. By the time it occurred to me to see about attending a show it was too late to book something. May be an idea for future.

The UNESCO World Heritage site, Sergiev Posad was on our list for the next day. It is a famous monastery complex and pilgrimage destination. The Trinity Lavra of St Sergius is a beautiful architecture wonder crowned with onion domes of the Russian Orthodox faith. It is one stop on the “Golden Circle” that is a tourist loop outside of Moscow that features quaint medieval villages.

And lastly, an interesting, guided tour of the Kremlin with a special stop by the Armoury Chamber. The Kremlin is a complex of five palaces and four cathedrals with a fortress wall surrounding it. It has been the site of many of Russia’s historical events. The Armoury is a beautiful white building within the Kremlin which is a museum housing many priceless artifacts including ceremonial and coronation items and Fabergé imperial Easter eggs.

And so began our trip to Russia. Overall, we found the people to be welcoming, pleasant and resigned to the politics of the day. The guides were surprisingly honest about pollical issues and Russin life itself. Also, an important shopping note: Once you get out of Moscow and go to touristy places, the cost of basic souvenirs skyrockets, costing about three times as much as what a local would pay (if they can even afford it). However, there some pricey iconic souvenirs such as black lacquer boxes with scenes from Russian legends and places and also intricate hand-painted Santa Clauses with the same scenes which are really outstanding collectible pieces of artwork, plus of course the ubiquitous Russian stacking dolls.

Note that our trip to Russia was in 2014 and the political climate has changed quite a bit since. As with some other countries, as desirable as they may be to visit, you may have to wait until they are safe for Americans to travel there. Check the State Department website for any travel advisories if you are unsure. However, I highly recommend the visit and the cruise. It was a lovely mix of city, country, small towns and exquisite historical buildings and art centers.